Portland Maine

We left Halifax with the intention of sailing straight to Portland Maine. The winds were going to be changing in our favor and we were going to have a nice weather window for the next 3 days.

The latest hurricane was well off shore, so we didn’t have to worry about getting hit by it, but it was the source of the winds that were predicted. When we left, the winds were out of the north northwest and predicted to shift to northeast in the early evening. It sounds like a subtle difference, but on our course it was the difference between sailing up wind vs. down wind. Sailing up wind is fun and exciting, but very rough. Whereas sailing downwind, is smooth and relaxed. Everything slows down.

Between me leaving early and the wind shift coming late, we found ourselves sailing up wind in heavy seas. I could have headed more south to put the winds behind us, but the winds were stronger to the south so I kept pinching the wind waiting for it to shift.

Sue and I were both getting seasick, so I fired up the motor and headed to shore to anchor and wait for the winds to change. If you look at the PredictWind tracking site you can see us make an abrupt change of course and head for shore.

We arrived at a nice bay in an island around midnight. I hate anchoring at night. I have to trust the GPS, the charts, and radar. I have more faith in my eyes. It was a full moon with clear sky’s so we could see enough, but I could hear waves breaking on rocks and it sounded like it was next to us. All the instruments said we were fine, but it was enough to keep me from sleeping deep.

When we woke in the morning I could see we were fine. We had plenty of room from the shore.

The winds had finally shifted and the seas laid down. I put up just the main sail, had the seas behind me and we were doing a nice 5 knots. And, it continued that way until we reached the end of Nova Scotia and had to cross the Gulf of Maine.

Once we started our crossing, the winds picked up as did the waves. Even downwind it was uncomfortable. We were both queasy and saltines were the only thing that seemed appealing to either of us. It was also very cold at nights and too rough to make coffee.

Near the end of the second day the winds and waves died down. The last sixty miles into Portland was a nice smooth motor sail. In Nova Scotia, lobster season was over so we had gotten spoiled. Not so in Maine. There are lobster pots EVERYWHERE.

When you drive down the interstate you get a sign welcoming you to the new state. In Maine, you get a minefield of lobster traps welcoming you.

The problem with the lobster traps is if you run one over the line can get caught in your prop or on you rudder. If that happens I have to go swimming to try and clear the line. Not something I can do on a cold rough night.

I managed to avoid all the pots and we made it to our marina without issue. While bringing the main sail down, I saw one of the slides that attaches the main to the mast had broken.

All my sails are made by Quantum, who is headquartered in Traverse City Michigan. Fortunately, Quantum has a loft here in Portland. I contacted them to see if they could repair my sail, and they can, but not until Monday.

I was expecting to have to take the sail off, get an Uber, and bring it to them. Not the case. They’re coming out to the boat and can make the repair while the sail is on the boat. Perfect.

The marina we’re staying at is very nice. It’s the only marina I’ve ever been to where they’re staffed appropriately. There are dockhands everywhere and anything you need they’re there to help. The showers and bathrooms are the nicest we’ve encountered on the trip so far.

Last night the marina had an end of the year party. Open bar and plenty of good food. Our timing for arrival was perfect.

We’re actually in South Portland and have to cross the river to get into Portland. No problem on the bikes. Yesterday, we made it to Walgreens, West Marine, Trader Joe, and Whole Foods. The bikes were loaded down for the ride home.

Tuesday, we’ll be heading south again. Most likely, we’ll pick up a mooring ball for a night or two.